June 18, 2007

It's All Hyderabadi to Me . . .

The stretch of suburbia (West Alexandria/Annandale/Springfield) in which I toil offers an extraordinary array of culinary riches. Annandale is, of course, known as the D.C. area’s Little Korea. But in addition to dozens of Korean restaurants, my office is also just a five or ten minute drive from all of the following: a solid Peruvian chicken joint, my favorite Afghan kebab stand, a Korean/French bakery hybrid (scroll to the last paragraph in the linked article), decent Indonesian, serviceable Thai, Northern Chinese, Pakistani sweets, and even Bolivian. But until relatively recently, I had to content myself with exploring this bounty on my own or simply not at all (I don’t have fun eating at a restaurant all by myself).

You see, most of my co-workers are admittedly happy to breakfast at McDonald’s and lunch at Wendy’s. And the few lunches that we all have together in the conference room are typically catered by Papa John’s (as a side note, one former co-worker always insisted that at least one pizza be topped with hamburger, an unusual request made all the more unlikely by the fact that he originally hailed from Bangladesh). But I don’t suffer from those choices too much because thankfully, on those rare occasions when we actually do go out for lunch as one big happy work family, we can all agree upon Mike’s American Grill.

Fortunately, one of my newer co-workers has proven to be surprisingly amenable to just about every lunchtime expedition I’ve proposed. He’s originally from India, and perhaps because he’s had to assimilate his tastes to the American palate he’s willing to explore just about any other culture as well. His command of English, including idioms, is outstanding. But sometimes when I’m trying to pitch a cuisine that he hasn’t tried before and my salesmanship is falling flat, I’ll resort to describing a particular item in terms of Indian food in a last ditch effort to pique his interest. And I only realized the other day just how odd it is that, outside of this forum, I regularly describe an already seemingly exotic ethnic dish in terms of another exotic ethnic dish- neither of which would constant my own native grub. While my interpretations can be a bit loose, I thought some folks might find it interesting to see a short list of various dishes that I’ve described in terms of Indian dishes:

1)    I’ve likened Bahn Xeo, the Vietnamese crepe described in the previous post, as being akin to the Indian dosa, crepes that are typically filled with potatoes onions and spices. While the Viet Royale crepe could be loosely described as dosa-like, the one that my co-worker and I had at Saigon Citi (they do spell it "Citi" at the actual restaurant even though the link suggests ortherwise) was like a thick and greazy (and I do mean “greazy”) omelette.

2)    I’ve likened Thai curry puffs to Indian samosas. The curry puffs at Thai Lemon grass are among my favorites in the area, even if Thai Lemon Grass is somewhat underwhelming, in general. The curry puff is a delicate pastry stuffed with potatoes and spices whose cooling accompaniment is usually a dish of chopped cucumbers and carrots in a light vinegar dipping sauce. This is very similar to the Indian samosa, which is basically a small, fried turnover stuffed with potatoes or meat and spices.

Dsc010513)    I’ve likened the salteña, a Bolivian baked turnover, to the Indian samosa. Salteñas are easily in my top five favorite food items of all time, as they are self-contained meals, or at least half-meals, with the perfect balance of sweet and savory and protein and carbs. I’ve been to a number of different Bolivian places, from the relatively upscale Tutto Bene (an Italian restaurant by weekday, a Bolivian restaurant by weekend) to the rather divey and unwelcoming Pike IV (not to be confused with Phase IV), and I’ve never been disappointed by a salteña.  The salteña is typically stuffed with a chicken or beef stew that usually has peas, potatoes, onions, olives, pieces of hardboiled egg, and sometimes raisins. Unlike its possible Indian counterpart, a salteña can be potentially hazardous for the novice, as a surprising amount of hot broth will spill out if you just plant a haphazard bite without knowledge of its consequences. The salteñas pictured here are from Pike IV.

4)    I’ve likened Peruvian pollo a la brasa to tandoori chicken. This is basically a battle of the marinades. I happen to favor the crisp, golden, spice encrusted Peruvian chickens to the otherworldly red of its distant Indian cousin. Like kebabs, pollo a la brasa is one of those rare ethnic foods that has true cross-cultural appeal. In fact, I have been known to describe pollo a la brasa as the unofficial fast food of the D.C. area.

5)    I’ve likened Indonesian corn fritters to Indian pakora. While my enthusiasm for Indonesian corn fritters (bakwan jagung) varies depending upon the purveyor, I love pakora, especially if I can douse them in tamarind sauce and spiced yoghurt. The buffet at Shiney’s (our weekly Pakistani pitstop) regularly features a bunch of pakora lazing in a vat of curried yoghurt sauce. So bad for you, but so good.

Dsc01019_46)    I’ve likened the scallion pancakes at northern Chinese snacker A&J Restaurant to Indian uttapams. I actually don’t have that much experience with uttapams. If I’m at the buffet at Minerva, dosas with coconut or ginger chutney, pakora, and, of course, nan will always take precedence when I’m in carb-loading mode. Pretty much everyone has had a scallion pancake, at some point. But I bet most folks have never seen them fresh from the fryer all swollen like a blowfish (they flatten out into pancake form once they cool). I had the ones pictured here at Temptasian, the Szechuan restaurant, that all the foodies flipped out over and then subsequently abandoned once chef Peter Chang’s brief residence concluded. Though it’s admittedly not as good as it was during Chang’s tenure, it’s really the only place to get an authentic Szechuan fix in the close-in suburbs. We used to favor Crystal City’s Formosa Café, but they fled to Chantilly a couple years ago. There’s also the secret Szechuan menu at the Charlie Chiang’s on S. Pickett St., but dining at Temptasian is somehow a bit less depressing on a Saturday night than rolling through the loading dock ambience of S. Pickett Street.

Contact info for all of the places mentioned here can be found at the links in the article.

-AC


March 22, 2006

Stealth Bolivian

Dsc00240The D.C. area has a number of restaurants that offer semi-stealthy ethnic sub-specialties. Tutto Bene, perhaps the most famous recent example of such places, looks like an unremarkable neighborhood Italian restaurant during the week, but then transforms itself each weekend into a destination for many members of the local Bolivian community. Its Bolivian menu is available until 3 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. It’s worth noting that if you’re interested in trying Bolivian food, but your dining companions are resistant to your adventurous streak, Tutto Bene’s Italian menu seems to be available during those hours, as well.

Dsc00229I always start off with a chicken saltena, which is basically the Bolivian version of an empanada. A word of caution is necessary even for experienced empanada handlers. Bolivian saltenas typically have a fair amount of broth inside, so you’ll want to bite off the tip of the pastry and drink much of the broth before proceeding any further. I found out the hard way that ignorance of this method means scalding liquid running down your shirtsleeve. The golden brown pastry shell is beautiful to behold and not too buttery. Inside, the small pieces of chicken stewed with potato, peas, raisins, egg, and (hopefully) an olive comprise some of the most satisfying and portable comfort food ever devised. They seem to use a fair amount of cumin to spice the stew, and since that happens to be one of my favorite spices, it just puts their saltena over the top. The meat in the ground beef saltena was a bit fatty for my taste and doesn’t seem to work as well as the chicken does among the saltena’s stewed contents.

Dsc00225Though the sopa de mani is described on Bolivian menus as a peanut soup, it’s never come close to the sort of old fashioned Virginia peanut soup that I envision each time I see it listed on a Bolivian menu. In fact, it doesn’t seem to taste of peanuts at all, instead approximating a light cream soup with both boiled and french fried potatoes with stewed bits of beef both on and off the bone. Perhaps the peanuts are merely used as a thickener. Tutto Bene offers the finest rendition of this soup that I’ve had thus far.

Dsc00232I want to like pique a lo macho, but the hot dog slices that are typically served in this dish keep getting in the way. The first time I tried this dish, which was at a different restaurant, the menu English somehow translated whatever the Spanish word is for hot dog into sausage. So you can imagine my disappointment when I was hoping for spicy chorizo and instead found chunks of Oscar Mayer. At the time, I thought it was a fluke. Why ruin what would otherwise be an outstanding dish of sauteed beef, with slices of tomato, hardboiled egg, jalapeno, and onion on a bed of steak fries? And why should it be such a culinary stretch to offer chorizo instead of hot dog? Well, the inclusion of hot dog pieces is no fluke, as they have played the supporting meat in the pique a lo macho at each of the several Bolivian restaurants that I’ve been to. Unfortunately, at Tutto Bene at least, I was unable to simply push them aside, as their smoky hot dog essence tainted what would have otherwise been the wonderful broth in which the steak fries were idling. I’m a big time dunker, so tainted broth is a big deal to me. The chunks of beef mostly escaped the influence of hot dog, and were fairly tender from being sauteed in beer, though occasionally a bit tough.

Dsc00235But the real reason I came to Tutto Bene was to enjoy an encore presentation of their Silpancho, the Bolivian version of steak and eggs, and a superior one at that. A flattened, continent-shaped piece of steak very lightly breaded and fried, rests atop two eggs over easy, yet another pile of those perfectly crisp steak fries, and some rice. A salsa of chopped tomatos, onions, and jalapenos has been ladled over the steak, but when you run out of that (and you will because the steak is substantial), there’s always the complimentary ramekin of fiery llajua, the thin green Bolivian hot sauce of pureed tomatos and green chiles. It's a challenge to combine all of these elements in each forkful, so, thankfully, the delicate, wafer thin steak is just as tasty unadorned.

Dsc00223Though pink lemonade seemed to be the favored beverage of many of the regulars, we washed everything down with generous glasses of mocochinchi, an amber colored soft drink made from boiled peaches and cinammon. Indeed, that shadowy presence lurking at the bottom of each of our glasses is actually a dried peach. But the cinammon flavor has always overwhelmed any peach flavor whenever I’ve had mocochinchi, and Tutto Bene’s version is no exception.

Dsc00238_1Sadly, there are no Bolivian desserts at Tutto Bene, so assuming you have any space left, you can always opt for the novelty of chasing your Bolivian food with tiramisu, which is one of the three desserts that they make in house. Tutto Bene’s tiramisu actually was more like a tres leches cake than a tiramisu, as it had layers of cake and creamy frosting instead of rum and espresso soaked ladyfingers. It was merely okay, but not terrible if you absolutely need to finish the meal with a sweet.

Check out Tutto Bene for weekend Bolivian at:
501 N. Randolph St.
Arlington, VA
(703) 522-1005

—AC

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