June 18, 2007

It's All Hyderabadi to Me . . .

The stretch of suburbia (West Alexandria/Annandale/Springfield) in which I toil offers an extraordinary array of culinary riches. Annandale is, of course, known as the D.C. area’s Little Korea. But in addition to dozens of Korean restaurants, my office is also just a five or ten minute drive from all of the following: a solid Peruvian chicken joint, my favorite Afghan kebab stand, a Korean/French bakery hybrid (scroll to the last paragraph in the linked article), decent Indonesian, serviceable Thai, Northern Chinese, Pakistani sweets, and even Bolivian. But until relatively recently, I had to content myself with exploring this bounty on my own or simply not at all (I don’t have fun eating at a restaurant all by myself).

You see, most of my co-workers are admittedly happy to breakfast at McDonald’s and lunch at Wendy’s. And the few lunches that we all have together in the conference room are typically catered by Papa John’s (as a side note, one former co-worker always insisted that at least one pizza be topped with hamburger, an unusual request made all the more unlikely by the fact that he originally hailed from Bangladesh). But I don’t suffer from those choices too much because thankfully, on those rare occasions when we actually do go out for lunch as one big happy work family, we can all agree upon Mike’s American Grill.

Fortunately, one of my newer co-workers has proven to be surprisingly amenable to just about every lunchtime expedition I’ve proposed. He’s originally from India, and perhaps because he’s had to assimilate his tastes to the American palate he’s willing to explore just about any other culture as well. His command of English, including idioms, is outstanding. But sometimes when I’m trying to pitch a cuisine that he hasn’t tried before and my salesmanship is falling flat, I’ll resort to describing a particular item in terms of Indian food in a last ditch effort to pique his interest. And I only realized the other day just how odd it is that, outside of this forum, I regularly describe an already seemingly exotic ethnic dish in terms of another exotic ethnic dish- neither of which would constant my own native grub. While my interpretations can be a bit loose, I thought some folks might find it interesting to see a short list of various dishes that I’ve described in terms of Indian dishes:

1)    I’ve likened Bahn Xeo, the Vietnamese crepe described in the previous post, as being akin to the Indian dosa, crepes that are typically filled with potatoes onions and spices. While the Viet Royale crepe could be loosely described as dosa-like, the one that my co-worker and I had at Saigon Citi (they do spell it "Citi" at the actual restaurant even though the link suggests ortherwise) was like a thick and greazy (and I do mean “greazy”) omelette.

2)    I’ve likened Thai curry puffs to Indian samosas. The curry puffs at Thai Lemon grass are among my favorites in the area, even if Thai Lemon Grass is somewhat underwhelming, in general. The curry puff is a delicate pastry stuffed with potatoes and spices whose cooling accompaniment is usually a dish of chopped cucumbers and carrots in a light vinegar dipping sauce. This is very similar to the Indian samosa, which is basically a small, fried turnover stuffed with potatoes or meat and spices.

Dsc010513)    I’ve likened the salteña, a Bolivian baked turnover, to the Indian samosa. Salteñas are easily in my top five favorite food items of all time, as they are self-contained meals, or at least half-meals, with the perfect balance of sweet and savory and protein and carbs. I’ve been to a number of different Bolivian places, from the relatively upscale Tutto Bene (an Italian restaurant by weekday, a Bolivian restaurant by weekend) to the rather divey and unwelcoming Pike IV (not to be confused with Phase IV), and I’ve never been disappointed by a salteña.  The salteña is typically stuffed with a chicken or beef stew that usually has peas, potatoes, onions, olives, pieces of hardboiled egg, and sometimes raisins. Unlike its possible Indian counterpart, a salteña can be potentially hazardous for the novice, as a surprising amount of hot broth will spill out if you just plant a haphazard bite without knowledge of its consequences. The salteñas pictured here are from Pike IV.

4)    I’ve likened Peruvian pollo a la brasa to tandoori chicken. This is basically a battle of the marinades. I happen to favor the crisp, golden, spice encrusted Peruvian chickens to the otherworldly red of its distant Indian cousin. Like kebabs, pollo a la brasa is one of those rare ethnic foods that has true cross-cultural appeal. In fact, I have been known to describe pollo a la brasa as the unofficial fast food of the D.C. area.

5)    I’ve likened Indonesian corn fritters to Indian pakora. While my enthusiasm for Indonesian corn fritters (bakwan jagung) varies depending upon the purveyor, I love pakora, especially if I can douse them in tamarind sauce and spiced yoghurt. The buffet at Shiney’s (our weekly Pakistani pitstop) regularly features a bunch of pakora lazing in a vat of curried yoghurt sauce. So bad for you, but so good.

Dsc01019_46)    I’ve likened the scallion pancakes at northern Chinese snacker A&J Restaurant to Indian uttapams. I actually don’t have that much experience with uttapams. If I’m at the buffet at Minerva, dosas with coconut or ginger chutney, pakora, and, of course, nan will always take precedence when I’m in carb-loading mode. Pretty much everyone has had a scallion pancake, at some point. But I bet most folks have never seen them fresh from the fryer all swollen like a blowfish (they flatten out into pancake form once they cool). I had the ones pictured here at Temptasian, the Szechuan restaurant, that all the foodies flipped out over and then subsequently abandoned once chef Peter Chang’s brief residence concluded. Though it’s admittedly not as good as it was during Chang’s tenure, it’s really the only place to get an authentic Szechuan fix in the close-in suburbs. We used to favor Crystal City’s Formosa Café, but they fled to Chantilly a couple years ago. There’s also the secret Szechuan menu at the Charlie Chiang’s on S. Pickett St., but dining at Temptasian is somehow a bit less depressing on a Saturday night than rolling through the loading dock ambience of S. Pickett Street.

Contact info for all of the places mentioned here can be found at the links in the article.

-AC


April 25, 2006

One Brunch in Bangkok

We're big fans of fancypants Duangrat's Thai country cousin Rabieng. We'd read about their Thai Dim Sum Brunch, but only recently were we able to muster the energy for a good 25 minute drive just to enjoy our first meal of the day. DCist ran AC’s review of this brunch last week.


Those interested in checking out the brunch should note that some of the thirty dishes on the dim sum brunch menu are simply scaled down versions of regular menu items, and other dishes are offered on the regular menu as appetizers. Though we were admittedly disappointed that the brunch menu wasn't a total departure from their regular menu, it's a fun way to try a number of items that you might not normally order at dinner when their whole fried fish is competing for your attention.

We started off with the chive dumplings. Doughy on the inside, crispy and bubbly on the outside, these represent some of the best dumplings in the area.
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Another standout was the marinated beef strips with sticky rice. The rice was a little bit dry for sticky rice, but the strips of beef had an amazing coating of spices and a crisp texture.
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The “Som Tom” papaya salad was good, but we’ve had spicier and more flavorful renditions of this Thai classic.

The Grilled Green Curry Shrimp Satay erred on the side of savory instead of too sweet. And the shrimp had a nice grilled char.
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We were a bit disappointed by the Bangkok St. Peking Duck Rolls, as a plain flour tortilla was used instead of the sticky, pliable rice paper crepe that is normally used. Nonetheless, it's hard to resist roasted duck, scallions and hoisin sauce.
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The Crispy Tofu Triangles served with a sweet chili dipping sauce are a common appetizer at Thai restaurants, and AK can't ever get enough deep fried tofu. We were hoping that we might absorb a few beneficial isoflavones to cancel out some of the duck.

But Rabieng's great contribution to D.C. area Thai cuisine is the Rice Cake with Coconut Pork Sauce. It's also listed on the regular menu as "Tidbit" under "Old Time Classics." Slightly puffed rice was densely packed into a thin and crispy cake and paired with a deep red sauce of minced fatty pork with rich coconut curry.
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And the guava nectar, though from a can, was a refreshing brunch alternative to OJ.

For a Thai dim sum brunch, go to Rabieng:

5892 Leesburg Pike
Falls Church, Virginia
(703) 671-4222

—AC & AK

March 06, 2006

One Fish, Two Fish, Red Fish, Whole Fish

My mom is just as much of a Southeast Asian food enthusiast as AC and myself. I recall one of my first exotic food experiences when she was visiting me in New York. She suggested we try Le Colonial, a posh French-Vietnamese restaurant in midtown. I was largely clueless about Southeast Asian cuisine in general at the time (yeah, I knew what pad thai was and that was about it) and Vietnamese food in particular, so I let her do all the ordering. Her natural inclination at restaurants is toward fish, and in this instance, the whole fish. It’s such a dramatic experience, as the fish is presented, mouth agape, tail perfectly intact, just lying prostrate on a platter, and ready to be eviscerated with fork and knife. It was my indoctrination to the whole fish concept, and I ate a good portion of it. But I felt that it was just an unnecessary extravagance, not something that I would actually order to sate my hunger.

During her visits to Virginia, my mom insists on having Thai at Po Siam in Arlandria. The past couple times we’ve been there, she’s gone for the whole red snapper, which always made AC and I chuckle a bit that she would insist on the seafood options time after time. But once we tried it, this time cooked with red curry paste and coconut milk, we were blown away. The delicious crispy skin gave way to a tender, but meaty fish that was the perfect conduit for the sweet and savory Thai flavors. Since my mom routinely orders giant meals knowing she’ll only eat about one-tenth of her order, AC and I were invited to finish it, and we plowed through that thing as if it were about to swim away.

Since then, we’ve been intrigued by the whole fish but afraid to order it on our own. It just seemed like such a daunting thing to order. It’s a whole fish, for cryin’ out loud. But on a recent visit to Rabieng, we saw a few of the other patrons lovingly grubbing on various whole fish platters. There and then we vowed to try it the next time we went. And that took place last Thursday night.

Dsc00046DC, AC, and myself went back to Rabieng (after scoring some more halvah at Aphrodite Greek Imports, of course), and decided it was time for the fish. We went for the rockfish cooked in a chili-lime sauce and liberally garnished with slices of red onion and cilantro. The skin was sufficiently crispy, the fish fleshy and mild in flavor. The only trouble with the whole fish is negotiating the tiny bones that are hidden by the fried skin; it can be rather alarming when you accidentally crunch down on one. But overall, the fish was delicious and paired nicely with the powerful flavor of red onion and cilantro.

Enjoy a whole fish at the following great Thai restaurants:

Po Siam
3807 Mount Vernon Ave.
Alexandria, VA
(703) 548-3925

Rabieng
5892 Leesburg Pike
Falls Church, VA
(703) 671-4222

—AK

March 03, 2006

Thai Retailing Roulette

Though it may be difficult to muster the enthusiasm to shuffle through a Thai grocery store after gorging yourself at Bangkok 54, I highly recommend that you walk around the corner after your next meal there to survey the wares of their food mart. Bangkok 54 actually owns and operates not one, but two grocery stores- the aforementioned one in Arlington and another in Alexandria.

The one in Arlington has a couple of aisles featuring an extensive array of exotic spices, canned goods, and beverages, as well as a modest table of prepared foods. Unfortunately, all of these prepared foods are idling at room temperature, which is an unappealing setting for meats and other perishables. Still, we figured the desserts might be immune to whatever ill effects come from festering in a Thai grocery store all day, so we took  a chance on a couple of their dessert items.

Dsc00003_2We were absolutely charmed by their Luk Chub, which are these incredibly detailed dessert miniatures that are modeled after various pieces of fruit. The strawberries are dappled with little indentations to imitate the seeds, the cherries seem to have actual cherry stems poking out, and the other fruits feature delicately cut paper leaves. The skin of each of these fruits is thin and rubbery, and yields to a tan colored center of lightly sweetened bean paste. The bean paste is largely bland, though there did seem to be the faintest hint of coconut, and a somewhat bitter aftertaste. Though the actual taste and texture is disappointing, you’ll still feel compelled to purchase a container of Luk Chub just to have them around to marvel at their exquisite detailing.

We also walked off with their Three Kings Rice dessert. We gave it some time in our fridge to cool to a more appropriate dessert temperature, and once we dug in we were surprised by its excellence. Three Kings Rice features a thick slab of eggy Thai custard resting on a bed of sticky rice and sprinkled with a handful of these sweet fibrous shreds of indeterminate origin. The latter item merely adds an additional texture, but is mostly superflous. The custard is extremely rich, and the texture is somewhere between creamy and gelatinous. It pairs wonderfully with the grains of sweet sticky rice, and the addition of the coconut milk elevates it to a heavenly level of decadence. It actually took us three days to eat it, as a little goes a long way.

Dsc00048And from the exotic beveraging department, I decided to finally sate my curiosity about the Aloe Vera drinks I often see in Asian food marts. I scored a can of Aloe Vera Drink with Honey. I wasn’t sure if this would be akin to drinking hand lotion, but that actually might have been preferable to the reality of this beverage. While the liquid in Aloe Vera Drink is clear, it’s clouded by the inclusion of bunches of fruit sacs that look like translucent pieces of barley. The honey flavoring is sickly sweet with a chalky aftertaste. And though the aloe vera fruit sacs are initially alarming, their pulpy texture and mild fruit sweetness are a brief respite from the sickly sweet honey flavor. Like bird's nest drink, this is yet another Asian beverage that is clearly not consumed for its taste, but rather for its supposed health benefits.

Check out Bangkok 54 Grocery Store at the following locations:

3837 Mount Vernon Ave.
Alexandria, VA
(703) 549-8488

2927 Columbia Pike
Arlington, VA
(703) 521-4207

—AC

February 16, 2006

Pickled Peppercorn Sprigs

We love Thai food. I’m in the mood for it about 95 percent of the time. This is most likely due to my friends KL and SM, who, no matter where we are, will always support my need to have yet another Thai meal. AC, on the other hand, is only up for Thai about 73 percent of the time. There are times when, even though we’ve eaten Thai several times in the past few weeks, I will still crave it. AC, naturally, will want to switch gears to something crazy like mantu or nasi rames. But if I annoy him enough, he’ll usually buckle.

Anyway, having been Thai enthusiasts for several years, we have discovered a couple trends. For one, the best Thai on the East Coast is in DC, and I’m not just saying that. I lived in the area prior to moving to New York, and found that the Thai joints I sampled in the Big Apple, Philly, and other locations, didn’t even come close to the consistent greatness of area offerings like the small chain Sala Thai, Old Town’s Masaya, and Arlandria’s Po-Siam, to name just a few. However, AC will always remind me that Sripraphai in Queens is much lauded for its genius Thai menu, so I will concede the point that I have not tried what could be the best Thai in NYC. I will certainly seize the opportunity to try it next time I’m in the borough.

Secondly, there are some seriously tried and true items on a Thai menu that we will enjoy meal after meal. Our favorites included Pad Prik King (choice of meat in red curry paste, with kaffir lime leaves, and sautéed string beans), Drunken Noodles (broad cellophane noodles tossed with chicken, vegetables, basil, and sliced chilis in a light garlic sauce), and Yum (a very spicy salad with grilled beef, sliced chilies, crushed rice, fresh mint, cilantro, and lime). In fact, your run-of-the-mill suburban Thai joint rarely offers many options above and beyond the curries, standard noodle dishes, and satays. So while we’re more than satisfied with our Thai standbys, we’re always curious about regional specialties and more exotic menu choices. And this is where Bangkok 54 in Arlington comes in.

Bangkok 54 has received numerous accolades over the years from the local food media, and is perenially listed as one of the top restaurants in the D.C. area. After viewing the menu online, we made the conscious decision to order things that we’d never tried on a Thai menu before. In this case, we chose two entrees from among their specials—"54's Spicy Roasted Duck" and the "Crispy Catfish Curry." Feeling slightly guilty about choosing two fried entrees, we opted for their "Fresh Rolls" appetizer, cold sliced veggies wrapped in rice paper, accompanied with a rich, velvety peanut sauce.

The summer rolls were the best we’ve ever had. Each half of the roll was bursting with avocado and fried tofu, and layered with cucumber, carrots, lettuce, and vermicelli.

Both entrees were delicious, but quite possibly the weirdest things we’ve ever tried at a Thai restaurant. The duck came in small and large pieces deep fried within an inch of their lives and crispy as it gets, the bright red roasted skin practically glowing through the thin fried coating. This dish was hardly saucy at all, just chopped chilis and garlic, and, even better, generously strewn with crispy, fried basil leaves.

The catfish was tender and only lightly fried in a thin curry paste sauce. Its accompaniments, however, were otherworldy, so much so that AC remarked that it looked like it was prepared by aliens from the future. Thai eggplant is about the size of a large cherry tomato, its skin marbled with a two-tone green and milky white swirl, and when halved, its seedy interior almost appeared fig-like. We were also perplexed by the numerous little vines adorned with caper-sized berries. Despite their twigginess, these mystery items easily yielded to fork and mouth, at which point we realized they were pickled peppercorn sprigs.

Now that we have ventured into the unknown of Thai cuisine, we plan to return to Bangkok 54 to make sure our favorites hold up. Stay tuned.

—AK

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